Postcards from Pakistan
Life in Islamabad Eid-ul-Fitr
Box of traditional Pakistani sweets
Eid-ul-Fitr
Eid-ul-Fitr is the first day of the Islamic month of Shawwal. It marks the end of Ramadan, the month of fasting and prayer. Shawwal begins, and Ramadan ends, after a confirmed sighting of the new moon.
At Eid-ul-Fitr there are communal prayers and the giving of ‘zaka al-fitr’ or charity. It is also a festive time, to visit family and friends, give presents, to buy new clothes and prepare special meals.
Eid-ul-Fitr is also known as ‘Meethi Eid’ or sweet Eid in Pakistan. Celebrations have to include sweets. Traditional desserts are made like Sawaiyan and gift baskets of sweets are sent to friends and family.
There are two types of Sawaiyan – Sheer Khurma and Kimami Sawaiyan. Sheer Khurma is a milk pudding made with special vermicelli noodles that are cooked in thickened milk. Dates, fried lotus seeds, raisins, nuts and spices such as ‘elaichi’ or green cardamom are added to the milk. I have added a recipe for you to try.
To all who are celebrating, I want to wish you ‘Eid Mubarak’, a blessed Eid.
Sheer Khurma Recipe
Ingredients:
· Milk – 1 litre
· sweetened condensed milk – 200g
· Ghee – 2 tbsp
· Dates – 10 (dry)
· Green Cardamon pods – 3 – slightly crushed
· Vermicelli – I cup
· Sugar – ¼ cup
· Saffron – 1 pinch
· Nuts – ½ cup (you can use a mix and you can chop and/or keep whole)
· Raisins – ½ cup
Method:
1. Soak dates in warm water overnight. Remove seeds and chop finely.
2. Boil the dates in 1 cup of milk, the dates will absorb all the milk and become very soft.
3. Take 1 tbsp of milk and add the saffron threads.
4. Take the remaining milk and bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook and keep stirring for around 30 minutes or until thickened. Add the condensed milk.
5. In a separate pan add the ghee, cardamom and vermicelli and cook until a light golden brown.
6. Add the cooked vermicelli mix to the milk and cook for a further 10 minutes.
7. Add additional sugar to taste and cook until dissolved.
8. Add the saffron milk, half the dried fruit and softened dates. Stir to combine.
9. Garnish with remaining dried fruit and dates. Serve warm or cold.
Sheer Khurma
A gift basket we received with wonderful treats
My favourite sweet - Multani Sohan Halwa. See my blog on this traditional and delicious sweet.
Almond biscuits called Khatai - wonderful with chai
Another favourite of mine, Revri, made from sesame seeds.
Barfi, with silver leaf to make them extra special
Covered in sesame seeds and fried - yum!
Motichoor ke ladoo - made with almonds, ghee and sugar
All sorts of different pastries are also given as gifts.
Life in Islamabad Eid al-Adha - Feast of Sacrifice
Australian Photographer in Pakistan
Goat decorated for Eid al-Adra
Today is Eid al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice or the Greater Eid, that falls on the 10th day of Dhul Hijjah, the last month of the Muslim calendar.
For the last couple of weeks animal markets have suddenly appeared all over Islamabad. As well as traditional animal markets, temporary, smaller markets appear in vacant lots and alongside roads. The markets have goats, sheep, cows and camels and everything you need from food to decorations. These animals will be sacrificed on Eid al-Adha. It is estimated that across Pakistan between 8 to 10 million animals will be sacrificed over this holy day.
If you know your Quran or Bible you will know the story of Abraham (Ibrahim) and Isaac (Ismael). If you don’t then here is a quick summary. God asked Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac. Abraham was willing to follow God’s commands but before he sacrificed his son God provided a ram for Abraham to sacrifice in Isaac’s place. That is why on Eid al-Adha a sheep (or goat, or cow or camel) is sacrificed. The meat is then divided into three parts: one for the poor, one for relatives and one for home.
Wishing you all Eid al-Adha Mubarak - Blessed Feast
Small goat market, Islamabad
Temporary goat market, Islamabad
Decorations for your animals, Islamabad
Decorated goat for sale, Islamabad
Larger decorations for cows and camels, Islamabad
Food for your animals, Islamabad
Goats, temporary road side market, Islamabad
Camel, temporary road side market, Islamabad
Newspaper supplements, a goat would be the equivalent of approximately $A210
Postcard from Pakistan - Margalla Hills
Australian Photographer in Pakistan
Instagram gaynor.shaw.photography
The winding road up to the top of the Margalla Hills, Faisal Mosque in the distance.
On the weekend we enjoyed a drive up into the Margalla Hills. It was lovely to be outside Islamabad and enjoying the cooler temperatures. In Islamabad at the moment it is around 35-40 degrees each day. At the top of the Margallas it was 25 degrees with a constant breeze.
You can hike in the Hills and there are many different trails. Due to the virus there have been less people using the trials and there has been a corresponding increase in the sightings of leopards and jackals. We didn’t see any (shame) but did see many different birds and monkeys. We were also warned about the many snakes on the trails. One story has it that the name Margalla comes from the Persian for snakes ‘mar’ and galla ‘herd’.
The Margallas are part of the Himalayan foothills and reach an elevation of 1604m. It was wonderful to see the hills rising into the distance. Hopefully one day, when we can travel again, we can follow the hills up into the north of Pakistan.
Great spot for a house, Islamabad in the distance
Near the top, Islamabad under a blanket of haze
The Hills are covered in pine trees, the pine needles a blanket of red.
From red pine needles to bright, lime green, new growth.
A local woman, returning home from the mosque, graciously stops to have her photo taken.
Looking north-west, the other side of the Margallas.
A final photograph before we head home.
Life in Islamabad - Chana Chaat
Australian Photographer in Pakistan
Instagram @gaynor.shaw.photography
IFTAR RECIPE – CHANA CHAAT
Ramadan (or Ramazan or Ramzan) in Islam is the ninth month of the Muslim Calendar. This year is lasts from April 24 to May 24. It is a time of fasting, prayer and reading of the Quran. It is also a time when you get together with your family and friends, cook special food and give donations to the poor.
During Ramadan Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset. Muslims will eat a pre-dawn meal of suhur ‘of the dawn’ and the second meal of the day is iftar ‘break of a fast’, eaten after sunset.
There are many special iftar recipes. This is one of our favourites. Let me know if you like it too.
Chana Chaat
Ingredients:
Two cups of dried chickpeas
One onion
One tomato
Handful of coriander
One tablespoon of Chaat Masala (Pakistani spice mix) see note*
Two lemons
Salt
Method:
1. In a saucepan put 4 to 5 cups of water, pinch of salt and the two cups of chickpeas. Cook until tender. Drain.
2. Finely chop the onion, tomato and coriander (keep a little aside for presentation).
3. In a large bowl, add all ingredients including half a tablespoon of chaat masala.
4. Squeeze two lemons, add to the bowl, mix until well combined.
5. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
6. When ready to serve, toss the chana chaat once more, sprinkle with remaining chaat masala and top with remaining coriander.
*Note
If you can’t find Chaat Masala you can substitute with Garam Masala and add some extra lemon juice to the mix
Life in Islamabad - time to smell the roses
Australian photographer in Pakistan
Instagram @gaynor.shaw.photography
During these difficult Covid-19 times I am trying to stay home and thought I should use the time to practice some macro photography. I am very fortunate to have a wonderful garden, looked after by some excellent gardeners. In English we have a saying that to be able to grow plants well you have a ‘green thumb’. I have no such skill, in fact my boys say I have the exact opposite a ‘black thumb’!
A couple of months ago my gardeners took me to some local nurseries in Islamabad to pick plants for the garden to make sure it looked it’s best in spring. Nurseries here are not like nurseries back home. Back home every pot contains a label with a picture so that you know what the plant will look like once grown, information on where and when you should plant it, how much water it requires and what type of soil it likes. There were no such labels here. I did see one label that said petunias - at least I knew what a petunia looked like. Instead each nursery had a team of knowledgeable people and I also had the encyclopaedic knowledge of my gardeners. In depth discussions were held and plant choices made. I was no help in the decision making but it was very nice of everyone to try and include me. I wandered around with my camera enjoying the experience. After days of rain I was happy to see the sun come out, washing being hung out to dry and plants shining with raindrops.
There is a cliché that says ‘stop and smell the roses’. The original quote is from Walter Hagen who said ‘You’re only here for a short visit. Don’t hurry, don’t worry. And be sure to smell the flowers along the way”. These seem to be apt words for our current times.
Petunias!
Dahlia
Banyan Tree
Postcard from Islamabad - Faisal Mosque
Australian Photographer in Pakistan
Instagram @gaynor.shaw.photography
Faisal Mosque, Islamabad
Inspired by the shape of a bedouin tent, at the foothills of the Margalla Hills, Faisal Mosque is a dramatic, contemporary piece of architecture. The mosque was designed by a Turkish architect, Vedat Dalokay. The surrounding four minarets are 79 metres tall. The mosque can accomodate 10,000 worshippers and is the largest mosque in Pakistan and the fourth largest mosque in the world. Unfortunately we couldn’t go inside the mosque but as we looked through the windows we could see the amazing interior with mosaics and calligraphy by Pakistani artist Sadequain.
The mosque is surrounded by a large courtyard and park, attracting many worshippers and visitors. When we visited the park and courtyard were full of people having picnics and meeting friends. As a sign of respect I covered my head and we left our shoes with an attendant at the front entrance. Many people wanted to know where we were from and why we were visiting. I’m so glad we visited, both to see the incredible architecture but we also met some wonderful people.
Life in Islamabad - meet the miller
Australian Photographer in Pakistan
Instagram: @gaynor.shaw.photography
I have been very keen to learn to shop like a local. There are supermarkets and shops that look a lot like Australia but where is the fun in that?
A friend shops at a small place in Gulshan Market that sells flour, rice and pulses. She invited me to come along with her and was told to bring my camera as it is an interesting place. We went to buy a large bag of rice where first you pay for your purchase at a small window next to the store room and then you wait for your order to be filled and weighed.
Flour is milled at the shop to your requirements. Large or small amounts can be bought. The shop was filled with a fine dust that drifted down and the miller’s eyelashes, eyebrows and hands matched his naturally white beard and hair.
My visit to the shop coincided with increasing flour prices across the country. This is making life difficult for locals and many small businesses that need flour to make daily items such as chapati and naan.
Visit Atta Chakki Brothers, Gulshan Market, G7/3/2, Islamabad. Bring cash and camera.
Postcard from Islamabad - Pakistan Monument - symbol of unity
Photographer in Pakistan
Pakistan Monument, Shakarparian Hills, Islamabad
As the sun was setting on Saturday I visited the Pakistan Monument located in the Shakaparian Hills. There were lots of people around enjoying the view and the wonderful weather. On the drive up to the monument there were families having picnics and enjoying horse and camel rides, fairy floss and balloons.
The monument represents Pakistani unity and is based on Mughal architecture with four large and three smaller petals. The large petals represent four different cultures - Punjabi, Balochi, Sindhi and Pakhtun. The three smaller petals represent minorities, Azad Kashmir and Gilgit Balistan. In the centre is a crescent and granite star, the symbols on the Pakistan Flag. The art work on each of the larger petals show famous landmarks and historical figures. On two walls leading up to the monument there are handprints from all the people that worked on the building, a beautiful tribute.
The monument has great views over Islamabad and next time I will leave more time to sit and admire the view and visit the attached museum.
Postcard from Islamabad - Pakistani Handicrafts - colour and yet more colour
Photographer in Pakistan
I was lucky enough to attend a handicraft fair at the Chinese Embassy in Islamabad on Sunday. I was expecting to see some traditional handicrafts but I was not expecting to see women demonstrating delicate needlework or to see some wonderfully modern textiles on display. I stood for some time and watched a Kashmiri women embroider a shawl. She worked so quickly and deftly and she seemed amused by my attention and numerous questions.
At the fair were handicrafts from across Pakistan: silk rugs; bronze vases, carved slate, pottery, trinkets and more. I would love to visit the places where some of these handicrafts are made and see the processes used for each one. For now I was happy to browse the stalls and get an idea of the variety of traditional handicrafts made across Pakistan.
In case you are wondering I bought one shawl but I could have bought so many more!
My one purchase - detail from a beautiful woollen shawl with hand embroidery of leaves and flowers from Kashmir
Postcard from Islamabad - Pakistan Railways Museum, Golra Sharif
Photographer in Pakistan
On another cold and foggy day we drove to Golra Sharif, about a forty-five minute drive, to see the Pakistan Railways Museum. We were lucky enough to have the curator of the museum, a young archeologist, to show us around and provide a very informative background to the pieces held by the museum.
The museum has both train carriages and artefacts from when the British first built the station in 1881. The museum has railway items from clocks to crockery to carriages.
I was particularly interested in the historical carriages, Saloon no.38 that carried the last Viceroy of India Lord Mountbatten and also Quaid-i-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah and Saloon no.5, the royal saloon, a gift of the Maharaja of Jodhpur to his daughter on her wedding in 1888.
I also learnt about Major S.M. Rafi, who commanded a train during partition in 1947 and safely took Muslim refugees from India to Pakistan. He cleverly thwarted numerous attacks and locked each carriage to ensure the refugees safety. The key is on display in the museum.
The Museum is on one of Pakistan’s main train lines and trains come through regularly so look both ways before crossing the railway tracks! Even if you’re not interested in trains you will enjoy the social history in a well maintained museum underneath some amazing old banyan trees.
Major S.M. Rafi and his life saving key
Postcard from Islamabad - Fatima Jinnah Park
Photographer in Pakistan
Monument - Fatima Jinnah Park
Islamabad is a planned city, split into different zones. It is an easy city to get around as each sector is given a letter and a number. Each residential sector covers a block, an area of approximately 2km by 2km.
F9 is given over entirely to Fatima Jinnah Park. The park has lots of walking paths through natural grasslands and trees. As I went out early on a cold and foggy morning it was eerily beautiful with dew gathering on leaves and branches, trees and park benches were opaque in the fog.
As it was cold and because the park is large I hardly saw another person. The few people I did see were jogging or walking briskly to keep warm.
I also came across three women cutting firewood. I didn’t speak to them but I am guessing that the firewood will be used for cooking, keeping warm and perhaps some of it will be sold.
I will return to Fatima Jinnah Park, when the weather is a little warmer.
Australian bottlebrush - a beautiful reminder of home
